Plot: How do you transform a simple piece of fresh fish into a gorgeous Yucatecan specialty? It’s all in the magic paste, says Rick, as he takes us to the Merida market to explore the region’s colorful, aromatic essential seasoning pastes (or recados). These magical mounds of spice blends become the base for grilling rubs, the heart and soul of tamales, the seasoning for all kinds of food wrapped in banana leaves and the flavoring undercurrent for tangy escabeches and slow-simmered stews